Caring For and raising emu Chicks - Care Sheet
1 day old emu chick
Information about breeding emu, incubating and hatching eggs can be found on the Breeding Emu page.
If you are worried that your chick will not make it out of the shell, please read this article before you give up on your eggs, or decide to drill a hole in the shell. Drilling a hole is not advised, as you can read here -
Why You Shouldn't Assist an Emu Hatch.
If your emu chick doesn't have company, or it is a while until the next baby is due to hatch, then you can put a cuddly toy in the brooder cage with it, some people put a chicken chick in with emu at first. Emu really like company and a chick will feel more at ease with company. When setting eggs in the incubator it is worth remembering this so you can set them at the same time to hatch around the same time.
When they first hatch out, their bones are still soft and their stomachs are full of yolk, thus, for a day or so, they may not move around much.
Emu can often have their heads back for a day or so, or their feet may turn slightly inwards and it may take them a day or so to stretch out after being scrunched up in the egg. Extreme cases of curled toes on emu, where the toes curl right under may benefit from having cardboard paddles, cut to size and taped to their toes with medical tape, just for a day or so.
If you are worried that your chick will not make it out of the shell, please read this article before you give up on your eggs, or decide to drill a hole in the shell. Drilling a hole is not advised, as you can read here -
Why You Shouldn't Assist an Emu Hatch.
If your emu chick doesn't have company, or it is a while until the next baby is due to hatch, then you can put a cuddly toy in the brooder cage with it, some people put a chicken chick in with emu at first. Emu really like company and a chick will feel more at ease with company. When setting eggs in the incubator it is worth remembering this so you can set them at the same time to hatch around the same time.
When they first hatch out, their bones are still soft and their stomachs are full of yolk, thus, for a day or so, they may not move around much.
Emu can often have their heads back for a day or so, or their feet may turn slightly inwards and it may take them a day or so to stretch out after being scrunched up in the egg. Extreme cases of curled toes on emu, where the toes curl right under may benefit from having cardboard paddles, cut to size and taped to their toes with medical tape, just for a day or so.
Sexing emu chicks
Save your egg membranes for getting your chicks sexed, you won't need the outer shell. The membranes need to be fully dried and sent in a plastic bag within an envelope to the links below. Sexing your chicks from the membranes will save you having to send in blood samples or feathers later. It isn't expensive and it is good to know as early as you can, the sexes of your new emu, to make plans for their futures.
IQ Bird Testing (US DNA sexing)
Avian Biotech (US DNA sexing)
Avian DX (US DNA sexing)
Animal Genetics (UK and Europe DNA sexing)
Avigenics (UK DNA Sexing)
Biobest (UK DNA sexing)
Health Gene (Canadian DNA sexing)
Sexado de Aves (Spanish / European DNA sexing)
Tauros Diagnostik (European DNA sexing)
There is more information about emu sexing on the Breeding Emu page
IQ Bird Testing (US DNA sexing)
Avian Biotech (US DNA sexing)
Avian DX (US DNA sexing)
Animal Genetics (UK and Europe DNA sexing)
Avigenics (UK DNA Sexing)
Biobest (UK DNA sexing)
Health Gene (Canadian DNA sexing)
Sexado de Aves (Spanish / European DNA sexing)
Tauros Diagnostik (European DNA sexing)
There is more information about emu sexing on the Breeding Emu page
Identifying emu chicks
When chicks have hatched you may want a way of identifying them, especially if getting them sexed via egg membrane. There are a couple of different ways to do this.
The size of bird leg bands you would need to buy would be 16mm. By a week old they fit them like bracelets with enough room, but they will soon out grow them. It would be wise to buy the ones that are reusable so they can unclip rather than having to be cut off. If using bird leg bands be sure to check them daily, as they can grow very tight, very quickly and may end up cutting off the circulation in the legs. Soft, stretchy hairbands can also be used, the sort that are cotton like and not too elastic, although be prepared for them to get covered in faeces very quickly, because these are elastic you will need to keep an eye on these too to check they are not tight.
Another, more safer way of identifying chicks is to use nail varnish on their claws, using different colours for each bird, or even painting different toes for each bird. Check the varnish has not worn daily and apply a new coat if needed, nail varnish can also disappear under poop once the emu start eating.
Coloured cable ties can be used, but again, check these daily as they can soon get too tight for the legs.
The colours of birds can be used for identification when sending off the egg membranes, by writing down which membrane goes with which colour.
The size of bird leg bands you would need to buy would be 16mm. By a week old they fit them like bracelets with enough room, but they will soon out grow them. It would be wise to buy the ones that are reusable so they can unclip rather than having to be cut off. If using bird leg bands be sure to check them daily, as they can grow very tight, very quickly and may end up cutting off the circulation in the legs. Soft, stretchy hairbands can also be used, the sort that are cotton like and not too elastic, although be prepared for them to get covered in faeces very quickly, because these are elastic you will need to keep an eye on these too to check they are not tight.
Another, more safer way of identifying chicks is to use nail varnish on their claws, using different colours for each bird, or even painting different toes for each bird. Check the varnish has not worn daily and apply a new coat if needed, nail varnish can also disappear under poop once the emu start eating.
Coloured cable ties can be used, but again, check these daily as they can soon get too tight for the legs.
The colours of birds can be used for identification when sending off the egg membranes, by writing down which membrane goes with which colour.
Feeding emu chicksThe baby emu may not eat or drink straight away, usually for about the first three days, although they may peck at bit's of crumb scattered nearby. Sometimes when the chick does start to eat, it may need a bit of encouragement. The type of animal feeder that clips onto the side of the cage will stop food and liquid being spilled over. The food should be ratite chick crumb, so specialist feed needs to be ordered in advance, as it is not something that stores will usually stock on the shelves as standard. A local farm supplier might order feed in for you if you ask them.
The chick may have difficulty seeing the food at first, so sprinkle a few grains of crumb around the brooder cage from day one, as they like to peck at little things laying around it will encourage them to eat more once their yolk has been absorbed. Also put some chunky silver items (too big to swallow) in the food bowl since emu are attracted to shiny things. Likewise, with the water, put tin foil in the water bowl and tap the bowl with a bright coloured pencil to attract them; they love yellow! You may need to be patient here and persevere a bit with this. To supplement their food supply, add Vitamin B drops to the water. Do try them on fruits and leafy veg every day too, but don't leave fresh food out. They often will pick at small pieces of spinach or kale floating in their water, the movement in the water seems to grab their attention. They will be on the ratite crumb until around a month, after a month mix ratite growers in with it for another month or 2, then they should be on the growers pellets until around 6 months when you can start introducing ratite layers pellets in to the mix. Green leafy vegetables such as spinach, kale, watercress etc should be given every day but not be left out to go off. Emu chicks must not be given medicated feeds. |
Emu chick on rubber backed mat / carpet
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It’s really important NOT to supply water in a chick drinker designed for hen chicks - emu chicks “scoop” rather than “sip” and will become dehydrated if they can’t take in enough water. They are also very clumsy and do stumble into bowls left around their brooder, so the hanging type will avoid this and protect those delicate young legs. |
Vitamins and supplements
Vitamin B complex of all B vitamins needs to be added to their food or water, this will help prevent weak legs, you could add vitamin B drops in to their water, or buy something formulated for birds such as Vetarks BSP drops or Rooster Booster Poultry Booster. Likewise Vitamin E and B's will help keep Wry neck away from young emu. With Vitamin E it is worth noting that Vitamin E can't be absorbed by the body without Selenium, a good bird multivitamin such as rooster Booster should contain what is needed. Feeding the correct non-medicated feed is essential for vitamins, along with fruits and vegetables, but the addition of vitamins is important for hatching emu as their growth rate is quick and the vitamins are essential in avoiding splayed legs and wry neck. Wry neck seems to be increasing in young emu recently.
A list of nutritional properties for emu feed brands is available in News and Articles
A list of nutritional properties for emu feed brands is available in News and Articles
Housing chicks and young emu
When emu first hatch, for the first few days they will be happy within something like an indoor rabbit cage with a brooding light over it, be very careful that it is not too hot to burn the chicks, emu have been burned from lighting that is too hot. When emu first hatch they may not be able to move around much. Keep it warm enough at one end and cooler towards the other, so the baby can place itself in a location where the ambient temperature is most comfortable, which it may not do for a day or two. A brooding plate can also be used but they will soon grow out of it.
Once they are up and on their feet they will require something bigger as they will need to run to exercise their legs, something like a play pen, dog pen or large rabbit run would be great for this stage, you could hang the brooder lamp over the pen and raise it via a chain as they get taller. Remember that emu grow quickly, so something with high sides will stop you needing to update the pen too quickly. If you live in a cold country with frosts or snow, you'd probably want to keep them inside still at this stage, if not they will need a warm heated barn.
The pen will need to have non -slip flooring, such as carpet, or artificial grass. Rubber backed mats the type that they have in shops (shown in the picture above of the chick on it's hocks) are great as they don't slip and can be pressure washed easily, they also dry very quickly too. Cleaning will become essential and none stop at this stage, so which ever non-slip flooring you decide to go for it will need to be non-slip, we simply can't stress that enough. Emu legs are developing at this stage, their muscles are growing, if they are on a slippy surface then their legs will grow towards the direction of the slide of their feet, this in turn harms them at the hips and their legs will grow outwards. Or, one slip can knock the whole hip out.
The floor of the brooder cage needs to be non-slip (this is highly important as it will avoid splayed leg). Towels or carpet can be laid on the base of the cage, along with things for them to rest on, such as cuddly toys or an old jumper, (make sure though that it's something that won't catch on their feet). They may also need something to prop up their head for the first day or so. Avoid using wood chips as flooring in the brooder and cages for baby and young emu as they are likely to slip on woodchips. Sand is to be avoided too since it can cause impaction. Artificial turf is becoming more popular. If you choose to use this then use one of the softer ones as their feet are quite smooth at first and clean the artificial turf regularly since artificial turf can be a breeding ground for bacteria.
Important
When the babies are running around they must not run, walk or stand on surfaces such as wooden floors, laminate or tiles, because emu are prone to splayed legs, this being the most common ailment we see in young emu, and the most easily avoided. Splayed legs in very young chicks can be bound, with occasional success if caught very early, but will lead to a fatal demise in older emu. (More information on splayed legs on the Emu Health page).
Be careful when handling chicks and youngsters because rough handling can lead to fractures, bruising and tendon damage. Older chicks are more safely moved by herding them rather than carrying them by having one hand across the sternum and the other hand below the pelvis.
Once they are up and on their feet they will require something bigger as they will need to run to exercise their legs, something like a play pen, dog pen or large rabbit run would be great for this stage, you could hang the brooder lamp over the pen and raise it via a chain as they get taller. Remember that emu grow quickly, so something with high sides will stop you needing to update the pen too quickly. If you live in a cold country with frosts or snow, you'd probably want to keep them inside still at this stage, if not they will need a warm heated barn.
The pen will need to have non -slip flooring, such as carpet, or artificial grass. Rubber backed mats the type that they have in shops (shown in the picture above of the chick on it's hocks) are great as they don't slip and can be pressure washed easily, they also dry very quickly too. Cleaning will become essential and none stop at this stage, so which ever non-slip flooring you decide to go for it will need to be non-slip, we simply can't stress that enough. Emu legs are developing at this stage, their muscles are growing, if they are on a slippy surface then their legs will grow towards the direction of the slide of their feet, this in turn harms them at the hips and their legs will grow outwards. Or, one slip can knock the whole hip out.
The floor of the brooder cage needs to be non-slip (this is highly important as it will avoid splayed leg). Towels or carpet can be laid on the base of the cage, along with things for them to rest on, such as cuddly toys or an old jumper, (make sure though that it's something that won't catch on their feet). They may also need something to prop up their head for the first day or so. Avoid using wood chips as flooring in the brooder and cages for baby and young emu as they are likely to slip on woodchips. Sand is to be avoided too since it can cause impaction. Artificial turf is becoming more popular. If you choose to use this then use one of the softer ones as their feet are quite smooth at first and clean the artificial turf regularly since artificial turf can be a breeding ground for bacteria.
Important
When the babies are running around they must not run, walk or stand on surfaces such as wooden floors, laminate or tiles, because emu are prone to splayed legs, this being the most common ailment we see in young emu, and the most easily avoided. Splayed legs in very young chicks can be bound, with occasional success if caught very early, but will lead to a fatal demise in older emu. (More information on splayed legs on the Emu Health page).
Be careful when handling chicks and youngsters because rough handling can lead to fractures, bruising and tendon damage. Older chicks are more safely moved by herding them rather than carrying them by having one hand across the sternum and the other hand below the pelvis.
It is not a good idea to use sand for emu chicks as they can become impacted via the sand.
The type of food bowls that clip on to the sides of cages are perfect, being off the floor they can't be kicked over and prevent the emu walking through the food and water.
It wont be long at all before the chicks will be heading outside, the sunshine brings vitamin D and is needed to help them absorb calcium in to their bodies for their rapid growth. By the time they leave an inside pen they will be heading out to a heated shed or barn. By this stage in a chicks development it is usually spring / late spring and in some countries it is still very cold and there may still be frost and snow in some places. Straw can be added to help keep them warm, and again, surfaces need to be non-slip.
In to summer the chicks can go in to an outdoor pen, keeping them safe from foxes and coyote. If the pen or paddock has adult emu outside of it, make sure they are fenced in with 6ft fencing, making sure that any large holes, like stock fence netting are not small enough for a young emu to get it's head through.
The emu would require some kind of shelter, you can use a polytunnel, but emu chicks can get quite distressed if any of the plastic flaps around in the wind. By now they will not require a heat lamp. At this stage it is beneficial for them if there is some reachable forage growing in and around the paddock.
Chicks can get distressed being open outside, so if putting them within a pen it is a good idea to block off their view from open areas to make them feel more secure.
The babies will be in the pen until they are at least a year old if there will be other emu around them when they are released, older than 12 months is better. Some may come in to their breeding season around 18 months old, so at this age their temperaments may change and this will need to be considered in advance. You will need to watch them all closely for a while to make sure they are all getting on well. A large enough space with hiding places will make life much easier for the young, should they experience some chasing. If there are no older emu around then you can let them out of this pen when they are safe from predators. Ideally young emu should be kept separate from adult emu until they are around 12 - 18 months old. They may get along in a mob at a younger age, but this is dependent on the temperaments of the adult emu around them.
The type of food bowls that clip on to the sides of cages are perfect, being off the floor they can't be kicked over and prevent the emu walking through the food and water.
It wont be long at all before the chicks will be heading outside, the sunshine brings vitamin D and is needed to help them absorb calcium in to their bodies for their rapid growth. By the time they leave an inside pen they will be heading out to a heated shed or barn. By this stage in a chicks development it is usually spring / late spring and in some countries it is still very cold and there may still be frost and snow in some places. Straw can be added to help keep them warm, and again, surfaces need to be non-slip.
In to summer the chicks can go in to an outdoor pen, keeping them safe from foxes and coyote. If the pen or paddock has adult emu outside of it, make sure they are fenced in with 6ft fencing, making sure that any large holes, like stock fence netting are not small enough for a young emu to get it's head through.
The emu would require some kind of shelter, you can use a polytunnel, but emu chicks can get quite distressed if any of the plastic flaps around in the wind. By now they will not require a heat lamp. At this stage it is beneficial for them if there is some reachable forage growing in and around the paddock.
Chicks can get distressed being open outside, so if putting them within a pen it is a good idea to block off their view from open areas to make them feel more secure.
The babies will be in the pen until they are at least a year old if there will be other emu around them when they are released, older than 12 months is better. Some may come in to their breeding season around 18 months old, so at this age their temperaments may change and this will need to be considered in advance. You will need to watch them all closely for a while to make sure they are all getting on well. A large enough space with hiding places will make life much easier for the young, should they experience some chasing. If there are no older emu around then you can let them out of this pen when they are safe from predators. Ideally young emu should be kept separate from adult emu until they are around 12 - 18 months old. They may get along in a mob at a younger age, but this is dependent on the temperaments of the adult emu around them.
Common problems in emu chicks
Common problems in emu chicks include Splayed Legs, Wry Neck and Wide Gait, wide gait is explained below, splayed legs and Wry Neck can be found on the Emu Health page.
Wide gait in hatching emu
The video clips below show a hatching emu chick born with a wide gate, he wasn't able to get a grip on the carpet. If left, his legs may grow outwards as the legs push outwards and get trained to turn the direction that the feet move as the chick grows. Binding the legs known as 'hobbling' gives instant relief to the chick, in the case of this chick, he could get right up and start walking. The hobble only needs to be on for a day or so, just to train the legs to go straight. The third video clip is a day or 2 after the hobble was applied, and shows the same chick running around.
To make a hobble, a hair band can be put over the chicks feet with a piece of straw cut to size, to go in between the chicks legs, or, as pictured here, bandage / first aid tape can be used. The aim here is to tape the legs the correct distance apart. You should see improvement after a day or two, the hobble doesn't need to stay on long on hatching chicks.
On the nest, chicks hatched by their parents. - Parents have been observed pushing the legs with their beak, towards the centre, on chicks with a wide gate, almost as if they are telling them to sit properly.
This method of hobbling emu is also effective for early cases of Splayed Leg. There is an example of how to apply a leg hobble on the Emu Health Page.
To make a hobble, a hair band can be put over the chicks feet with a piece of straw cut to size, to go in between the chicks legs, or, as pictured here, bandage / first aid tape can be used. The aim here is to tape the legs the correct distance apart. You should see improvement after a day or two, the hobble doesn't need to stay on long on hatching chicks.
On the nest, chicks hatched by their parents. - Parents have been observed pushing the legs with their beak, towards the centre, on chicks with a wide gate, almost as if they are telling them to sit properly.
This method of hobbling emu is also effective for early cases of Splayed Leg. There is an example of how to apply a leg hobble on the Emu Health Page.
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Emu chick hatched with wide gait. |
The same chick with a hobble on and now able to walk. |
Running around after having his hobble removed. |
Registering emu parent and Chick bloodlines
In recent times there has been concern over the emu gene pool, if you would like to register your emu, rhea, ostrich, or your chicks before they go off to their new homes this can be done on an international bloodline register through Ratite Registry - https://www.ratite.org. Registered breeders can also be found on their website.
The first emu to hatch cuddles a cuddly toy to prop his head on.
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Raising emu on the nest with parents
There is also an article below of a pair of emu who raised their young.
https://www.emu.services/news-and-articles/emu-chicks-hatched-with-both-parents
https://www.emu.services/news-and-articles/emu-chicks-hatched-with-both-parents
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