Emu Breeding, incubation and hatching eggs
If you would like information about rearing chicks with their parents on the nest, that information can be found here... https://www.emu.services/raising-chicks-with-both-parents.html
Sexing emu
It is not possible to tell the differences between male and female emu just by looking at them, the advice below will help you sex them.
If hatching eggs, you can save the membrane of the egg to send off for sexing. Make sure the membrane is dry when you send it in; you don't need to send in the shell. There are websites listed below to show you where to send them.
Vent sexing is one of those things that has to be done properly, lay the emu on it's back and carefully unfold the cloaca, before day 3 and after day 10. It can be difficult between days 3 and 10 due to the males phallus can often get stuck within the folds around the vent which would make it appear as female. Vent sexing has proven time and time again to be a very unreliable way of sexing emu.
If you see your emu about to defecate, by raising the feathers at the back end, have a look at the cloaca opening, the males have a very small phallus on the stomach side of the opening, you may have to look closely to see it, and it helps if you have seen a few to know what you are looking for. This can only be done on full grown birds, and again is not the most reliable way of sexing.
There is no reliable way to sex emu until they reach sexual maturity, unless you sex them by DNA. Some may say that you can tell by the bulls eye pattern on their head, but this observation does not appear to be true, a myth tested and proven to be an unsuccessful way of sexing emu. We have done a test on that with an article 'Debunking the bullseye on the head sexing myth'. Emu become sexually mature at between 18 and 24 months old, usually towards the latter, they may not go in to their first breeding season until around the age of 3.
To sex chicks and young birds you can send off half a dozen feathers - usually taken from the second set of feathers of its chest or tail- or a blood sample, which is often done by snipping the end of the wing claw and dabbing the blood on to a card. The subsequent wound can leave birds open to infection though so do be careful; spray immediately afterwards with Colloidal Silver, Terramycin or Iodine and treat with Styptic powder to aid the clotting. Each country should have such a company which tests DNA. (Please feel free to send in links for companies in other countries).
Once the birds are sexually mature, or they are coming up to the emu breeding cycle for the first time, you can watch and listen: the females may make a drumming noise, which sounds like a continuous booming bass drum, for a few seconds at a time, there is a video of a female drumming on the Emu Behaviour page, along with information on breeding behaviours. The drumming sound comes from a pouch along the bottom of the airways and in mature females can often be apparent in front of the chest area, the female inflates this sack to drum. A females drum can carry for quite a large distance. The males make grunting sounds, and can sound like they are burping, or snorting like pigs. However, before the females begin their drumming they may also make a sound similar to the male's grunt.
It should go without saying that emu should not be bred with their siblings, parents or other emu sharing their bloodline as this can cause genetic defects with blindness, neurological conditions and leg problems, amongst many other problems that may arise. Close breeding will also weaken the line for future chicks.
When coming in to breeding season you may spot males building nests, by laying twigs and leaves on the ground. The females may strut around with their heads back and their chests out, but boys can display too. The boys become quite soppy, or they may no longer approach you as they do in summer, and females may become quite feisty leading up to, and entering into emu breeding season. When a female is mature you may be able to see and feel a wobbly sack hanging down below her neck, by the chest. This is from where she generates her drumming sound. You need to feel a few different subjects' sacks to know exactly what you are looking for though.
IQ Bird Testing (US DNA sexing)
Avian Biotech (US DNA sexing)
Avian DX (Us DNA sexing)
Animal Genetics (UK and Europe DNA sexing)
Avigenics (UK DNA Sexing)
Biobest (UK DNA sexing)
Health Gene (Canadian DNA sexing)
Sexado de Aves (Spanish / European DNA sexing)
Tauros Diagnostik (European DNA sexing)
Emu egg nest
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Egg layingIn the UK, egg laying usually commences between mid-November and late December. Emu breeding season may begin before or after then in other parts of the world; around October in parts of America, May and June in Australia. The emu can lay a couple of eggs and then pause, and re-commence later.
Emu mating season can begin a month or 2 before the first eggs arrive. The first couple of eggs can be infertile. The emu will lay at any time of day, but usually does so just as the sun sets beyond the horizon. The male decides where he wants to sit and shows the female by laying down a few twigs and leaves in what looks like a very half-hearted attempt at a nest. The female will lay the egg in that location and walk off, while the male then covers the eggs with twigs and bits of foliage he can see laying nearby. The male won't sit until there are enough eggs to sit on; usually up to a dozen. The female will lay one egg approximately every three days. |
The eggs can stay viable for up to five weeks, it is thought, although they lose viability over time. You can keep taking the eggs until they have found a suitable place to sit. If you decide to take the eggs the emu will probably choose a different spot to make the next nest. There is a really interesting research study done about the duration of storage of emu eggs and resultant effects on hatchability here.
To clean or not to clean? When the egg is laid, it has a natural protective film, like a coating, which is not visible. Some people feel that putting dirty eggs in the incubator may make the eggs go off, whilst others feel it better not to clean the protective layer off the eggs. It is best to ensure that your emu parents have somewhere clean and dry to lay. This will reduce the need for cleaning.
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The images above show the first egg from a first-time laying female emu, the weight is 354 grams, half the size of what we would expect from an older emu.
Incubating emu eggsWhen setting eggs in the incubator, it is wise to set them all at the same time, so they hatch around the same time. Lone chicks can feel quite anxious alone, and they are very dependent on their parents and kin.
If you put just the one egg in the incubator you may end up with a lonely chick. Likewise if you put two or three in, be prepared for only one to hatch. Hatch rate is said to be around 50% - 70%, but anything either side of that is highly possible. There are so many variables when hatching emu eggs, from the porosity of the shells, temperature and humidity, power cuts, the fertility of the birds. If you're not collecting eggs personally, then shipping duration, including possible delays is also a factor to consider. Collecting the eggs yourself is advised for several reasons: firstly, when shipped, the eggs can be treated roughly and thrown around, and can also sit for prolonged lengths of time in extreme temperatures. Also, there has been a recent surge in the US of people scamming buyers, stating they will ship eggs once money has been sent. Quite often these people do not keep emu. They use the details of faux farms with photographs they have acquired from the internet. It is safest to buy eggs from established emu breeders, and breeders who are recommended, or have been checked out by reputable websites and social media pages. Ask the seller questions about their emu and emu keeping. It is also wise to google their phone number and email address as it may be used for several faux farms, and doing a backward image search on their photographs can show you places those images have been used. and collect the eggs yourself if you can. Each egg should be weighed, and this information noted. On one side of the egg write a +, with a quilting pencil or chalk, and on the opposite side a -. These symbols are for monitoring the egg turning. Eggs need to be turned about three times every 24 hours, though never the same way; they are always turned back and forth, and marking them helps show us the top and bottom. Let the eggs sit in a cool area for 24 hours before adding them to the incubator. The air end within is situated at the fatter end of the egg, so emu eggs are generally set in the incubator on their sides. Setting eggs on their sides also helps at hatching, it helps the chick get in to position for hatching. Don't apply stickers to the shells, as the glue on the sticker can harm the eggs. It's advised not to use permanent marker pens too because of the chemicals in the ink. Chalk or quilting pencils work well. Generally, don't use the incubator turner for turning emu eggs, as most incubators are made for smaller eggs and will only turn the egg part-way. Eggs need to be turned by hand, (180 degrees, three or five times per day - it should always be an odd number), unless you have a larger commercial incubator with a greater turning ratio. Any incubator that will fit emu eggs can be used. Although studies from commercial farming research papers have shown that emu parents turn their eggs 90 degrees. |
Calculation to work out weight loss in emu eggs.
Information taken from The Emu farmers Handbook.
Humidity for hatching emu eggs is ideal in the mid 20s to low 30s Humidity meters are known as 'hygrometers' and can be bought in lots of different styles. The ones used in reptile enclosures are quite reliable enough, but it's wise to put in 3 and take an average from them. Digital hygrometers will often need calibrating before using. If you find that you have far too much humidity then using dehumidifiers in the room where you keep your incubator may be an option for you. If you have too little humidity you try adding a bucket of water to the room. |
It is thought that not much humidity is needed for hatching emu eggs; around 24% to 35%, which is often about normal room humidity level in more humid countries. Setting the temperature at 36.1°C / 97°F will provide optimum results, though a little leeway either side of that temperature is acceptable. (See temperature / number of days to hatch graph above).
You can weigh the eggs every week or two to make sure they are losing weight predictably. An emu egg will generally lose about 10% to 20% of its weight over the incubation time. If you notice that your egg weight loss is too much then you may need to increase humidity; or vice versa. If the weight loss measures are erratic then it may be because your humidity level has been fluctuating. An inconsistent humidity level is best avoided; you need to keep it as constant as possible. Smoother eggs may loose less weight than more dimpled eggs, which are more porous.
Some people choose not to weigh their eggs. In fact, if you have the correct humidity and temperature levels, there is little need to. In some cases a small bowl of water with a small surface area, such as a shot glass, placed in the bottom of the incubator, will suffice to keep the humidity level within acceptable parameters.
Weight loss is not an indicator of fertility, both fertile and infertile eggs will lose weight.
You can weigh the eggs every week or two to make sure they are losing weight predictably. An emu egg will generally lose about 10% to 20% of its weight over the incubation time. If you notice that your egg weight loss is too much then you may need to increase humidity; or vice versa. If the weight loss measures are erratic then it may be because your humidity level has been fluctuating. An inconsistent humidity level is best avoided; you need to keep it as constant as possible. Smoother eggs may loose less weight than more dimpled eggs, which are more porous.
Some people choose not to weigh their eggs. In fact, if you have the correct humidity and temperature levels, there is little need to. In some cases a small bowl of water with a small surface area, such as a shot glass, placed in the bottom of the incubator, will suffice to keep the humidity level within acceptable parameters.
Weight loss is not an indicator of fertility, both fertile and infertile eggs will lose weight.
If an egg starts to smell or weep; once detected immediately remove it. A smelly egg can't be saved and may adversely affect your other eggs. Also, a bad egg may explode in your incubator.
You can also tap your eggs with a metal rod to test their health; any that clink like china may be bad eggs. Tapping can also help determine when the bird has pipped internally. Internal pipping can happen around three days before hatching. Tap both ends of the egg to hear if the internal air space has been filled with the bird.
When they pip internally stop turning the eggs. There is no need to change the humidity towards the end of incubation, because it can drown the chick if too high. It is advisable to keep your own notes as you learn what works best with your ambient humidity level.
There is enough air in the egg of emu, once pipped internally, to last for three days or so. Once the chick pips the outside of the egg it can take them about 24 hours to emerge. So no need to panic if it's taking a while! Emu are much slower at breaking out of their eggs than other birds. Do not feel the urge to pick at the egg or help a chick out; they will do so in their own time. If you feel like encouraging them, then whistling can be reassuring to them and they may even whistle back. We have an article on the News and Articles page explaining what happens within the egg of emu at hatch, and why you should not assist an emu hatch.
Emu eggs cannot be candled like poultry eggs as the shells are too thick. Around day 35 the eggs will start wiggling; as time goes by you may hear whistling from within them too.
You can also tap your eggs with a metal rod to test their health; any that clink like china may be bad eggs. Tapping can also help determine when the bird has pipped internally. Internal pipping can happen around three days before hatching. Tap both ends of the egg to hear if the internal air space has been filled with the bird.
When they pip internally stop turning the eggs. There is no need to change the humidity towards the end of incubation, because it can drown the chick if too high. It is advisable to keep your own notes as you learn what works best with your ambient humidity level.
There is enough air in the egg of emu, once pipped internally, to last for three days or so. Once the chick pips the outside of the egg it can take them about 24 hours to emerge. So no need to panic if it's taking a while! Emu are much slower at breaking out of their eggs than other birds. Do not feel the urge to pick at the egg or help a chick out; they will do so in their own time. If you feel like encouraging them, then whistling can be reassuring to them and they may even whistle back. We have an article on the News and Articles page explaining what happens within the egg of emu at hatch, and why you should not assist an emu hatch.
Emu eggs cannot be candled like poultry eggs as the shells are too thick. Around day 35 the eggs will start wiggling; as time goes by you may hear whistling from within them too.
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Letting the male emu sitIn the run up to breeding season the behaviour of emu changes. You may notice males either become quite feisty, or the exact opposite where they are just really, really friendly and quite daft with it. An emu who has shown you lots of attention, up until this time, may, for example, suddenly become less interested in you; they will eventually resume their normal behaviour.
Emu can also be protective of their nests, and may puff up and grunt to warn us humans to stay away from them. There is information about how emu behave in breeding season towards the bottom of the Emu behaviour page |
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When there are enough eggs on the nest the male will commence sitting, and incubating thus begins. Once sat correctly, he will do so for around 60 days, until hatching starts. For the first few days he will be up and down from the nest frequently, though once finally settled, won't shift. He will be there in all weathers and nothing will make him sit inside a shelter if he prefers to be outside. In a field with lots of trees you can usually let them sit when they have found a sensible (ish) spot, under trees or in a corner.
Leave water nearby (although he may not drink it). He won't need feeding. It is nice (for males) to leave them a few eggs at the end of the season, and let them sit. It tends to break their cycle, and gives them a chance to fulfil what comes naturally; and also for us to observe their behaviour. |
An emu pair working together at egg laying, keeping the eggs warm. |
If all their eggs are taken they may re-locate the nest, every time you do so. If eggs are moved a short distance they may try to roll the eggs back to the original location.
Put dry straw around the male and he will go catatonic without food or water for around 60 days; it is longer to hatch this way than by incubation. If they manage to hatch chicks, keep the females away, as they may kill the babies. Also protect the young from predatory animals. You can always take any wiggling eggs away right at the end of the sit, and incubate them yourself until hatching, to keep the chicks safe.
If you are considering letting your dads sit then have a read of the articles below.
Raising Chicks On The Nest
Emu Chicks hatched With Both Parents
When his time is up if he hasn't hatched anything he may not get up, in this case put food and water out for him for a few days then stop, when you stop he will get up off his nest to go and get food as his stomach will be moving again, when he does take one egg at a time if they are not viable.
Put dry straw around the male and he will go catatonic without food or water for around 60 days; it is longer to hatch this way than by incubation. If they manage to hatch chicks, keep the females away, as they may kill the babies. Also protect the young from predatory animals. You can always take any wiggling eggs away right at the end of the sit, and incubate them yourself until hatching, to keep the chicks safe.
If you are considering letting your dads sit then have a read of the articles below.
Raising Chicks On The Nest
Emu Chicks hatched With Both Parents
When his time is up if he hasn't hatched anything he may not get up, in this case put food and water out for him for a few days then stop, when you stop he will get up off his nest to go and get food as his stomach will be moving again, when he does take one egg at a time if they are not viable.
Hatching Emu EggsAll being well with the egg, (which lies horizontal when initially laid), it will position with its air end raised up throughout incubation development. When it has pipped internally the egg will then most likely lay flat as the bird is now taking up all the space inside the egg.
Gently tapping the air end of an emu egg will give a duller sound when the chick is filling the air space. Eggs that make a sound like china being tapped could be infertile or bad. |
The image shows how an egg sits when pipped internally, recently laid eggs and eggs where the membrane has come away inside will also sit this way.
A growing embryo will sit slightly raised.
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As mentioned above, up to three days before hatch, the chick will pip internally, the egg will rock and the bird will whistle. It helps to whistle back and talk to the egg, or have another baby emu nearby to whistle and encourage the baby to emerge.
Emu are born with pipping muscles which are there to help them out of the egg. They fade once the emu is born and only last for a few days. It is essential that breeding adults are fed on a diet with vitamin E for these muscles to be able to form within the shell.
Assisted hatches usually end up with a dead chick, as the chick needs to absorb its yolk sack, and its blood vessels may still be connected to the tissues of the eggs membrane. Separating this too early will kill the chick. Emu take MUCH longer than other birds to hatch, and it can be a slow process, but the chick really has to do this for itself.
Once hatched the bird can remain in the incubator to dry. Don't be tempted to pull any egg shell away from the baby too soon as it may still be attached to it; leave it in the incubator until all the shell has fallen away from the chick.
The chick will probably have a chubby stomach at first. This is the yolk sac which the bird will absorb into its body. Because of this, the bird may not eat or drink much, if anything, for its first three to five days after hatching.
It is good practice to put emu eggs in the incubator together so they hatch simultaneously. Baby emu really don't like being alone when they have just hatched, and will whistle like crazy, constantly trying to get your attention. Hatching together is also encouraging for the chicks.
The chick will probably have a chubby stomach at first. This is the yolk sac which the bird will absorb into its body. Because of this, the bird may not eat or drink much, if anything, for its first three to five days after hatching.
It is good practice to put emu eggs in the incubator together so they hatch simultaneously. Baby emu really don't like being alone when they have just hatched, and will whistle like crazy, constantly trying to get your attention. Hatching together is also encouraging for the chicks.
Assisting emu hatching
When it looks as though an emu egg will not hatch you really need to sit on your hands and wait for the chick to do this themselves. Assisted hatches really shouldn't be done due to what happens within the egg. The short story being that the chick needs to absorb the calcium within the egg, plus, the egg membrane is still likely to be attached to the chick via the blood vessels, the chick needs to detach the blood vessels. The chick needs to get very close to running out of air since the Carbon Dioxide within the egg will start to suffocate the chick, this needs to happen for the chicks pipping muscles to kick in and the neck muscles to start to spasm, it is this action which causes the chick to break through the shell. This struggle and pushing from within the egg is what creates the action for the chick to then absorb the yolk sack.
Emu do NOT have an egg tooth like other birds, they also do NOT unzip eggs like other birds. Instead they smash through the egg membrane and shell when the time is right for them, when their pipping muscles kick in to help the chick find it's way out.
There is an in depth article about this on our Articles page here... https://www.emu.services/news-and-articles/why-you-shouldnt-assist-an-emu-egg-hatch
Emu do NOT have an egg tooth like other birds, they also do NOT unzip eggs like other birds. Instead they smash through the egg membrane and shell when the time is right for them, when their pipping muscles kick in to help the chick find it's way out.
There is an in depth article about this on our Articles page here... https://www.emu.services/news-and-articles/why-you-shouldnt-assist-an-emu-egg-hatch
Photograph kindly provided by Rolland Jensen
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Emu Egg shapes and sizesEmu eggs can vary greatly in size, first time layers usually lay smaller eggs, and average egg size would be around 600 - 700 grams, although anything either side of that is still viable to hatch. It can often be less successful when the eggs are very small.
The eggs in the photograph show 3 different eggs, the egg in the middle is normal. The top egg would have a double yolk, but an emu is unlikely to hatch from an egg like this, it seems as though the eggs have travelled through the hens system in a sporadic manner, some eggs within the system may have been quicker than others, which is possibly how two eggs have become fused before they got their hard shell within the emu. . The egg on the bottom is an egg which looks as though it hasn't finished forming. These 3 eggs came from the same bird, around the same time. |
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A wiggly egg. |
If you whistle at the egg once it has pipped internally, the chick may whistle back. |
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Giving the chick some encouragement. A hatching emu |
An emu hatching (edited, not in real time). |
If you would like to register your emus bloodlines on an International Registry, this can be done at Ratite Registry
Click for - Caring For Emu Chicks care sheet page
Baby emu, the first to hatch
*The graphs and calculations above are taken from The Emu Farmers Handbook, which is the best book around on emu keeping.
Further Reading within Research Papers
Our Facebook group, Emu Keepers and Breeders Community Worldwide
Nutrition properties of various brands of emu feed in News and Articles
Our Facebook group, Emu Keepers and Breeders Community Worldwide
Nutrition properties of various brands of emu feed in News and Articles
Further reading and links
PRODUCTION AND INCUBATION IN FARMED EMU (Dromaius novaehollandiae) Suzanne M. Bassett A really in depth look at emu incubation.
The Incubation of Ratite Eggs Texas A&M University
Emu Research has a few articles of interest about breeding emu
The Incubation of Ratite Eggs Texas A&M University
Emu Research has a few articles of interest about breeding emu
IQ Bird Testing (US DNA sexing)
Avian Biotech (US DNA sexing)
Avian DX (Us DNA sexing)
Animal Genetics (UK and Europe DNA sexing)
Avigenics (UK DNA Sexing)
Biobest (UK DNA sexing)
Health Gene (Canadian DNA sexing)
Sexado de Aves (Spanish / European DNA sexing)
Tauros Diagnostik (European DNA sexing)
Avian Biotech (US DNA sexing)
Avian DX (Us DNA sexing)
Animal Genetics (UK and Europe DNA sexing)
Avigenics (UK DNA Sexing)
Biobest (UK DNA sexing)
Health Gene (Canadian DNA sexing)
Sexado de Aves (Spanish / European DNA sexing)
Tauros Diagnostik (European DNA sexing)
